Mooring Post
Fig.128A mooring post used on the concrete wall at Oakland, Cal. – from – Wharves and piers: their design, construction, and equipment pg. 189 pub 1917.

When I looked at the dimensions of the concrete footing I realized that the ones I had created for my scene were smaller. The ones in the drawing are 4 ft. square at the base tapering up to where the bollard flange is bolted down. That flange is 3 ft. on a side. That’s 3/4 in. in O scale and I measured my concrete footings and found they were 5/8 in. Okay .. soooo .. with that in mind I rescaled the original so the bollard flange would have about a 1 in. (0.020 in) smaller then the top of the concrete footing.

modifiedSo. I re-sized the bollard in Fig. 128 so that the flange changed from 36 in. to 28.320 in. Yeah .. that is a *funny* number. In o scale that is 0.590 in. .. or 0.035 in. under 5/8 in. .. the size of the tops of my concrete footings. That’s simply so that a bit of concrete shows around the flange when the thing is mounted.

In any case the bollard will be a bit more substantial then the originals.

modified2Since to get to this point I had created a 3D model .. I went ahead and rendered a quick view of the bollard.
Bits and Pices
Image1I turned the bollard from aluminum and cut the base plate from styrene. I would have rathered ‘played’ with brass but I need some brass stock to do that.
Image3Once everything was assembled I decided the rod I used for pads was too small so I came back with some 1/8″ disks punched from .020″ sheet. I added some NBW and used some spot putty to add a bit of radius here and there and then painted the entire thing with Reaper Old Bronze.
This was followed by a heavy’ish dry brushing of oily steel
Posing for a photo
ver2aThe bronze was followed by a heavy’ish dry brushing of oily steel and then a wash of brown oil paint. Here, they are just sitting for the photo – not glued down yet. I may (or not) add some additional color.
.. and a closer look.
ver2cPlayed around a bit with the color. It was pointed out to me that bollards would most likely be of cast iron rather then bronze (I STILL like the LOOK of bronze) –
anchorIt was pointed out that there wasn’t much to keep the cement block from being pulled out – like a tooth from a socket. Made sense .. so I thought about it a bit. If I were to fix this I would anchor the block. This means that I can add bolts to the front of the concrete footing.

I figure that in “real life” I would do it much like this. In any case, seems like a “good nuff” fix for the problem.

nbw4I used Tichy Train Group #8143 Nut Bolt Washers. For O scale they represent a 6″ sq. washer with a 2.5″ nut.

This is the far left bollard.

nbw3Moving the camera to the right a bit – about 5″ which in O scale is 20′.
nbw2Right some more – about 4″ this time or 16′ in O scale.
nbw1Finally, right again to the last bollard – again about 5″ or so.

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