City Bridge – Pt XII

Paint
Rust
The plan here is to use the Hairspray Technique. This method of painting starts with a basecoat of color. This color needs to be sealed RustCoat.. either an solvent based enamel for example or a top coat with a clear flat. What we want to do is seal this base color/coat against our follow on manipulation. For this bridge I what I am wanting to do is get the appearance of some rusting below the paint – but not decrepit. To start I need a base color of rust. I sprayed a coat of Valspar Satin ‘Sagerbrush’ – a suede color overall. I then used American Accents Terra Cotta – a bright color leaving just a hint here and there of the suede. Finally, Krylon Camouflage Brown sprayed at acute angles so that areas of the prior colors were left. What I am attempting to do here is get more ‘life’ in the surface then just a coat of rust color.
Oils
OilsPlayed a bit with color last night. I thinned some oils and applied to moderate the color somewhat. Up top .. purple brownish .. lower orangy yellow. I also mixed up some Testor’s last night for the paint layer – a pale green. I’ll do that later today I think.
TRESemmé
I sprayed on TRESemmé hairspray. You don’t want to use a brand that is ‘extra-hold’. This brand works well though. What we are trying to do is apply a resist over the top of our rust under-paint. Since this hairspray is water-soluble that will allow us to spray a top coat of paint and then weather that by allowing water to float off areas. Normally (as much as that term can be applied to this process) that allows chipping of the paint layer so the rust layer shows through. I’m going to attempt something a little more .. actually dissolving some of that top layer of paint rather then simply chipping it. Just how well that well work .. well .. we will just have to see.
Paint
paintI used Tamiya paint, mixing up a pale green, off white and brown – nothing on purpose just .. whatever came of it. I airbrushed a light coat with a little heavier application up under the upper main angle. I used a 50/50 mix of water and Windex as a solvent brushed over the paint to remove portions.
Ties and Rail
paint5I’ve ‘imagineered’ that ties for On18 would be about 6×6 in.sq. I used stripwood that would be 6×8 in. for the bridge as that gave the depth needed to dapp them over the girder flange plates. This was slightly complicated by the fact that the ends of the girders lack any flange plates and then steps up to three thick in the center of the girder. Each flange plate was made from .010 in. styrene (which represents ~ 1/2 in. plate full size. Since each tie was dapped .020 in. over the angles/flange plates this means that the center ties had a total cut of ~.050 in. This was accomplished with an X-Acto knife .. and I think worth the effort. The rails is Code 83 rail from Pecon HOn30 track. My guess is that this would be about 55lb. rail. I used Proto87 O scale spikes (long). Every fourth tie was longer to support a walk.
Walk and handrails
stanchionbracketI added the walk and then had to come up with a method to support handrails for it. I decided to make brackets that would ‘bolt’ to the ends of the ties. Evergreen square styrene sufficed for this. In the photo I was trying to see what .060 in. styrene rod would look like .. but decided that using 3 in. dia ‘pipe’ wouldn’t work. jbb (James van Bokkelen) on Kitforums suggested that angle would be more ‘usual’ .. so I did that (in a bit).
stack1Ummm …

  • Spikes – yes they are silvery. Still need to come back and put some color on them – and add some more.
  • Stanchion brackets .. sprayed some brown as a base then used foam to dab on some green color. I’ll come back with a dark wash to shadow at some point.
  • Clamps – those are little electrical clamps from Radio Shack. Small .. and the jaws are smooth. Excellent little tools.
  • Railing .. 2×4

I cut the stanchions long on purpose. Using the clamps I leveled the railing, adjusting the clamps until rail level and stanchions are vertical. I’ll cut the stanchions off level with the top of the rail once everything is cemented. Everything is so delicate that I need to get the rails glued to the stanchions simply to keep everything in one piece. Another railing will go in at half-way.

DRC&C
DSC_0181Added DRC&C to the side of the bridge. I originally was going to use DRCC .. but the “&” helped center everything so now .. it’s the … “Deep River Coal & Coke co.


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