Water Tank

stack-800I am thinking that this is the pump house for a couple of tanks .. one for water (the building is in perfect position to suck water from the creek). It could also pump oil to a second tank. The thing is .. where to put the tanks and where? What I am considering is using narrow-gauge tank cars .. perhaps even mounted vertically. Not sure at this point but I am going to make the tanks.

If I am careful I could mout them on concrete/stilts in the rock above the building.

Southern Pacific Tank Car No. 353
CPSGCThis tank car was in “Slim Gauge Cars” published by Carstens Publications. The blurb says “Car built by Nevada – California – Oregon RR possibly in early 1900’s.”. I’m not worring about an exact copy by any means just to get a approximate size.
My Version
tankcar2I have some Plastruct 1-1/2″ dia Clear Butyrate Round Tubing. This matches the dia of the SP tank car pretty well .. but I scaled the drawing so it matched exactly and let the length float. It comes out to about 6.2″ .. which is 24.8ft full-size.
ps11100-l-0For the ends I will use 1-1/2″ Cover Buttons. These are used with someone covering the button with a circle of fabric. Thee are listed as “1-1/2″ in. .. but are actually 1.47” dia .. which is great as this matches the tank ends of the full-size tank cars.
tubingI made up two tubes each about 6.2 in. long. I glued a strip of filecard into the ends of each tube to form a small internal projection that the button covers can be glued to. I used Rocket Card Glue for this – it worked great. I added super glue to stiffen the cardstock a bit.
Sizing Plating
platingIn the past I made a tank using cardstock for the plating. I used this for my “Small Oil Storage Tank” .. and the success and mistakes there should let me make this one better. The think that really stands out is my failure to seal the paper before painting. It came ok .. but as I say in the article .. “Note: There was a slight movement of the cardboard (swelling I meant). If I were to do this again (which I am) I would take time to seal it with some coats of lacquer.

To that end I printed the plating out on some 110lb cardstock. The next step is to seal it.

I think it is more important that you keep the sealant spray neat .. not so much what you are using. We want to ‘plastize’ the paper. When sealing printed paper a matt spray is preferable then gloss of course. I usually use a MinWax Spray Laquer – a Satin finish for that. I used this to plastize the ‘plating’ as mostly I like using laquer for this. Gloss would have worked fine. I sprayed a lighter coat on the side of the paper that will show and a thicker spray on the back. You actually want the paper to start to appear translucent .. like a wet T-Shirt contest. This lets you know that you are actually soaking the paper with the sealant. The reason for the ligher spray on the side that shows is simply to keep it from running.
Gluing Plating
gluingupTwo coats of the Lacquer worked well .. almost too well. It came out very well except that it came out really stiff. I pre-rolled the strips of plating around a pencil to curve them and then used Rocket Card Glue to cement them to the tube.

A and B are strips of the plasticized cardstock. They stand ‘proud’ from the tube ‘C’ .. this lets me use C as the lower plating. I cut B into three pieces so that the side cuts will look like separate plates.

The Rocket Card Glue acts more like a super-glue, setting quickily, the rubber bands holding everything in place until it dries.

Image555I found this nice cross-section of the dome in FM 10-67-1 – Concepts and Equipment of Petroleum Operations, Chapter 11, Tank Car Operations.

This at least gives a good idea of the construction. A ring with a dome top (well .. at least this design). The little hatch on top is really quite small.

SintraButyrateGluedI used some 3/4″ Butyrate tubing from Plastruct and cemented a piece of Sintra® using Oatey All Purpose Cement. The cement worked amazingly well.
domeI rounded the top of the glued up Butyrate/Sintra sandwitch and then used a piece of sandpaper wrapped around a piece of 1-1/2″ dia tubing to sand the curve into the bottom of the dome.
First Primer
primer_1Everything glued up and first primer coat. Need to cut a ring to fit around the dome. I have tired a couple of times to do it by hand but I am thinking I need to see if I can do it using my die-cutter.

Update: Yeah! Worked just fine. I need to do some more of the same work. The rings cut fine but I need to play around a bit with the settings to get a sharper cut.

Dome Bits
dome3I used various bits and pieces to make up the various bits and pieces for the dome. One of my favorite ‘bits’ are Wiggly eyes. That’s those things you see on a teddy bear’s head. You can buy all sizes at Walmart. The eyeball inside is a nice piece of round place plastic. Since I’m not trying to match anything exact I felt free to approximate the shapes.
Second Primer
primer2The only thing left is to add the outlet chamber and cap to the bottom of the tank. It’s pretty late tonight so I will do that tomorrow and splitz on a little more primer. I want to get busy with applying the water slide resin rivets but I’ve found in the past that they can be brittle (they are resin after all) so I want to get all strutual work done before apply the rivets.
Rivets and 3rd Primer
rivetedandprimeredWow. One thing about applying the rivets .. Micro-Mark O scale water slide rivet decals .. is that it takes FOREVER. Sheesh. I have found that it is easier to apply short strips of rivets .. about 3/4″ .. so I can have some control. Longer strips of rivets get all tangled up. Anyhoo .. that’s done and a coat of primer. This is really important .. the rivets being just resin are easily chipped until covered with the primer.

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