Barber Shop Pt II

My Barber Shop
FrontandBackWith the restraints to the footprint I designed this little barber shop. Thom Miecznikowski of Clever Models suggested I add a window to the roadside of the building. I did that .. bricking up everything but a small window that would peer over the road. A stairway on the very narrow back leads to an upstairs room where the barber lives.
Interior
interiorI thought that the lower part had enough room for a single barber chair while the upper portion room for a small (very small) room that the barber could live in. The cool thing about Sketchup is that I can fill the rooms with the barber chair, the barber .. and upstairs with a bed, chair, table and stove.

This tells me that as small as the building is .. it is actually large enough.

The Cardstock Model
PrintSheetsI created the model in Sketchup – which meant that I could print exact size. In Sketchup you can print so that 1 in. in Sketchup equals 1 in. in the print. I have a virtual printer (free) called CutePDF. You can print to this ‘printer’ and get a pdf that is exactly the same as the model in Sketchup. I load this pdf into Paint Shop Pro and can do various additional ‘magics’.
Work in Progress – 1
WIP_1I am putting the thing together here. This is more of a ‘prototype build’ in a sense .. since .. I am discovering things that I forgot .. or did wrong during the build. Still .. it’s coming along nicely so far.
Work in Progress – 2
WIP_2Have all of the headers and sills done. Working on the brickwork around the top. The Tichy windows are all painted .. so everything is working ok.

I inserted the painted windows into the openings for the photo. I still need to add the ‘glass’ as yet but will leave that until I get the rest done.

Finishing Up
Finished_1.. and .. complete. I’m pretty happy with how this ‘scratchbuild’ came out.
Finished_2.. and .. in place on the layout. Now .. I think I need to get those abutments emplaced .. the ground built up to meet their bases .. and do something about that bare place on the wall. Either a wall or perhaps a building flat might do.


Comments

Barber Shop Pt II — 8 Comments

  1. Ed,

    As usual, another fine piece of art!

    It’s almost impossible to tell in looking at a 2D photo of a 3D building on my computer screen… but I saw you printed additional brick trim strips. Did you use them to add a true 3rd dimension to your building? And if so — how did you use them?

    I’ve played around with cardboard buildings with attached printed paper facings, designing and printing them with Evans Designs’ “Model Builder” program. But I have never had much success in adding that true 3rd dimension. It does take some work to apply those trim pieces to posterboard and then cut them cleanly — a very sharp blade is a necessity!

    But here’s where I’ve run into trouble; the edges of said posterboard are white, or black, or whatever color they made in… How does one get a close-enough color match to the facing paper that is the surface layer? I’ve tried colored pencils, colored chalk, and acrylic paint, and have yet to come up with a method that consistantly works.

    Any suggestions you can offer will be appreciated.

    Once again — wonderful work on the barbershop!

    Regards,
    Tom Stockton

  2. Tom,
    That 2D looking 3D is due mostly to the great shadowing that Clever Models applied to that brick texture.

    Yeah .. I did the trim like this .. I cut out what looked to me like the ‘layers’ of brick. Now for the edges. I don’t try to match the color. It is in shadow so I used a Gray marker. I picked up one from Wal-Mart in the craft section .. a ‘painters’ marker (that is the brand name). Just colored the white edges with that. I think these are alcohol based .. says on the side that they are permanent

    – Cut out an entire strip of trim and glued that directly on top of the printed trim .. this gives the first level of a 3D effect.

    – next .. cut along the row where the staggered brick hangs down. I cut along and just above the shadow – just at the ‘chin’ of the brick hanging down .. the trim on the printed wall has the printed shadow. I used my X-Acto blade to cut away in between the individual bricks hanging down. I could then glue that directly on top of the trim printed on the wall.

    – finally .. there is a shadow along the top and bottom of the top three rows of the trim. I cut that three row strip out (with shadow) out and glued that to the other trim layers.

  3. Let me see if this makes more sense:

    • Start with the Printed Wall. We will be building the 3D effect on this
    • (A) is the complete trim cut fully out
    • (B)the bits of brickwork that hang down like teeth. They stand out from the trim below that because you can see the shadow they throw. So .. cut just above that ‘thrown’ shadow. When you glue this strip on it will stand proud of the surface but the shadow will appear on the lower trim piece
    • (C) there appears to be a shadow above the ‘teeth’ so let’s assume that bit of brick sticks out further then the ‘teeth’. So .. cut along the line of the brick above the ‘teeth’
    • (D) Cut above the shadow thrown below it
    • (E) Repeat .. cutting above the shadow thrown

    Next .. with all the pieces cut out .. use your Gray alcohol marker and color the edges. It really doesn’t have to match .. our eyes see this as shadow. IF .. you happen to have a marker that is the ‘brick color’ then that will work .. but the Gray works just as well.

    Layering

  4. Next you simply glue down the strips. That’s basically it .. other then keeping everything aligned. Since the layers are just a repeat of the one below it .. easy to match the bricks. The only problem really is at the corners where you have to make the two walls look like brick is wrapping around the corner .. which means you need to work FROM the corner out.
    Pasted up

  5. Ed,

    Thank you for the tutorial WITH pictures! What you are showing is what I’ve tried to do before – but without your level of success. My personal problem has been had two parts:

    1. When I’ve tried using the marker, it’s bled through the edge of the paper into the brick itself. I suspect that I am either using “too heavy” of a hand, applying more ink than necessary / desired, or that I need to print on better paper. I’ve been using plain ol’ printer paper… should I switch to a matte photo paper or something else? For what it’s worth, I’ve usually used cardstock (120 lb. or thereabouts) as my backing material — to make my 3D details stand out a little more. Is this what you use, or do you have a recommendation for a better backing material?

    2. The dark grey on the bottom as a shadow is fine. My main concern is on the edges that will be seen, especially the paper is showing a lighter color, such as the concrete on a lintel or on a decorative facade.

    Also — in your tutorial, you showed working from an edge so that the corners on adjacent walls match; I hadn’t even gotten that far. I’m going to guess that if you’re building a two-walled “prop” building, then that is not a big problem. But I forsee having to be even more precise with the cuts if the building has three visible walls, or is in a position where all of the walls are visible. As I do not have a layout yet– when I do build a building “just for fun”, I feel compelled to build all four sides, since I do not know what what the building’s eventual placement will be. When I do get a layout built, it WILL be an “along the wall” one, so not all four sides will not likely be visible.

    Things to think about…

    Thanks again for the time and effort spent on the tutorial — and on answering the questions I’m sending your way.

    Regards,
    Tom

    • Tom –
      Let’s see ..

      (1) Backing material. I use foamcore board for the underlying support. The black foamcore I purchase at Wal-Mart is 0.200″ thick. In O scale this is 9.6″ which is fine for wall thickness for me for masonry buildings. That is thick for woodframe construction but I don’t have interiors on most of my buildings so that works fine. For HO .. Gatorboard works well.

      Again .. back to the foamcore. I have a tutorial on using this to build a small shed – Building a Yard Shack with Paper where I use foamcore. Notice how I notched the sides .. works so well glue is just an afterthought for putting the under-structure together. While at this website .. register. You can then download a free O scale building – Building the General Rope & Wire Co. The tutorial there is by Thom himself -lots of good info there.

      (2) Most of my printing is directly on #120 cardstock – unless I am trying to fold like the window sills where I use regular printer paper. I still glue that around appropriate size stripwood.

      (3) Coloring the edges. yeah .. on regular printer paper the ink can flow through. Thom Miecznikowski, the owner of Clever Models suggests doing it this way: Before you cut the pieces out fro the paper .. color the back where the cuts will be. Practice on a scrap piece .. and you can get the color to soak into the paper without going all the way through to the front surface. For cardstock these ‘painter’ pens work fine without soaking to the front.

      For colored edges I use acrylics .. mix up a color to match and paint the edges. The acrylic if you leave un-thinned are thick enough not to soak through. What I do is ..from the un-printed side so if you slop over it doesn’t matter .. drag the side of the brush down the edge of the card you are coloring.

  6. Oops… “problem has been had two parts”… need more caffiene… starting to drift in to “LOLcat” speak — I can haz solution, pleaz?” Hahahahaha!

    Tom

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