Fire-Hose House – II

Some dimensions … (O Scale)
base_dim_originalThese dimensions are generated by Sketchup and are nothing more then a general guide. I left the precision numbers .. just for the heck of it. The 0.104″ x 0.145″ dimensions of the floor framing are a good example having been taking from a blurry copy of a hundred year old drawing. In “Real Life” that would be 5″ x 7″. The length and width as shown is again .. what ‘happened’ in Sketchup. A lot of the dimensions depend on those obtained in the preceding step. In this case .. 1.5″ is “good nuff”.
base_jointeryOne of the cool things about not really knowing what I am doing means that I am often surprised at what DOES happen. For instance, I was looking at the way the 5″x7″ beams joined and realized that in “Real Life” they would have been half-lap joints. MUCH stronger. Whether this is worth the trouble in a model is up to each individual’s tastes .. but it wouldn’t take much to do.
base_pdfI like creating plans in Sketchup as I can export a .pdf that can be scaled to whatever modeling scale you wish (within reason .. if it won’t fit on a standard piece of paper you have problems). To that end .. here is the base in O, S, HO and N scales.


yes .. I KNOW. There is absolutely NO REASON or use for such a thing for a model THIS simple .. but .. this shows how something more complicated can be created .. and a plan produced.

stack1Started with the base. I used a light coat of SilverWood to create a little weathering. I figure the inside floor would be grayed somewhat from the water dripping from the hose and dirt and such. The walls not so much .. probably orange’ish and darker at the bottom.
nominal_lumber_sidesI colored the various pieces to make them stand out a little. I labeled them ‘nominal’ .. simply meaning that this is what they scaled from the drawing as. I’ve come to the conclusion that when looking at these old drawings that the person doing the drawing wasn’t necessarily a carpenter so I figure this is at best .. a guide.

I show the siding as 1×6. This of course is up to the individual but a couple of thoughts. The interior and exterior are both visible which means that scribed siding will show a blank face on one side. That either means that the siding needs to be doubled to show a scribed face on both sides or individual boards need to be used. You could also apply individual boards to the inside of a piece of scribed siding. In any case .. the facing piece .. where the arrowed “Nominal 1×6” is pointing will have to be adjusted for the thickness of that siding and the post. Speaking of which .. I show the post as “Nominal 5×5” .. again .. taken directly from the drawing.

I think the important thing to keep in mind here is however the siding is made up, the width needs to match the width of the base at that point minus the thickness of the siding at the back. In the drawing I have the facing 1×6 strip flush against the edge of the base – with a space for the back siding on the far side.

Finally, the 2×4 at top and bottom are “whatever is in the scrap box” (length ‘to fit’) – as the ‘Nominal 3×3’ .. the important thing about the last is that the gap between them match the slat size you use. In the drawing they were 1×3 slats – one of the few items that actually had a dimension.

upperjointsJust on an aside – not that it matters at all for the model as it will be covered up by the other parts but when I am trying to figure out how they would have constructed something like this I will end up going with how I personally would go about it. The 2×4 across the top and bottom of the posts I would have notched into the posts as shown.

Actually .. if one was so inclined to build the model using board by board for the siding, assembling the posts and studs like this would make for a strong frame .. the same as the full size structure.

stack2So .. being more than a little mad .. i continue on. The posts are notched for the 2×4. Those 2×4 are the length of the base minus the thickness of two pieces of siding. Well .. until I notch out the ends for the 2×4 that run across the back and front but I will do that after the walls are glued and set happily.
wallframingFighting back lazyitius .. I managed to assemble the frames for the side-walls and stain some siding. Lazyitius can be identified by sounds of .. “Meh” and wanting to join the cats in a nap. You can see from the ‘progress’ [sic] that I wasn’t successful in the endeavor.
.. and I have .. a box
wallframing3At this point .. before putting the slats in the supports I need to do a little work on the inside. I only used Silverwood on the outside as the inside was protected. The stain that ran over the sides and stained here and there is fine with me. I have seen inside of old buildings where the wood has an orange tint to it (pine does this as far as I know).
OopsieIn the 1939 film The Wizard of Oz the Scarecrow sings “If I Only Had a Brain”. That came to mind as I realized last night that I had managed to screw up not just once but twice.

First .. I managed to miss the height by 0.087″ .. not that a ‘biggie’ as it is only about 4″ in O scale. The second .. and much worse was that looking at the spacing of the supports that will hold the slatted shelves. I *somehow* (this is where the lack of brains comes in) .. had the drawing upside down. What should have looked like the drawing on the left .. ended up like the one on the right.

Man … didn’t want to re-do, re-work, un-glue …

I can’t leave it like it is .. leaves no room on the upper shelf. I have a fix .. and it even makes sense .. more on that later on..

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