TWP Shed – Pt II

. a mini-clinic on brick walls
Safe-harbor Statement: I’m making this up as I go along but .. what the hey .. you can take what I’m saying with a grain of salt .. this is a .. ‘what I did’ .. instead of a ‘what to do’

BrickSheet1) I drew up a brick wall in Sketchup. You can of course, use whatever strikes your fancy and makes you giggle ..

I used what’s called a Flemish Bond. That means that within each row the bricks alternate between the long side and short side (stretchers and headers). So step 1 then is .. print that sucker out. I had modeled it at 1:24 so I printed it at 1:1

2) I used a low-tac spray cement to attach the paper to some blue foam
(I added some tape around the edges simply to keept the ‘sticky’ from my fingers

3) I used a green hi-lighter to indicate the top, right, bottom and left edges of the area I needed to scribe.

horiz_joints4) I used a straight edge aligned along one of the horizontal mortar joints and passed the X-Acto knife down that line, slicing through the paper and the foam. I repeated this for the entire face of the foam I was scribing.

Note: This is where the process could be improved. Eyeballing the position of the straight-edge only gets you so far .. just how even your are is simply up to how well you can position the straight-edge by eye. A better solution would be if you could figure a way to move the straight edge down a precise spacing. Just how to do that .. I haven’t figured out yet.

Vert_joints5) I used the X-Acto knife held vertically, and pressed into each of the vertical mortal joints.

Note: I think that if you were to grind a blade down so it is effectively a chisel blade the width of the vertical joint it would work a lot better.

Pealing the Template
PeelStripsWith the mortar joints ‘traced’ with the X-Acto knife, I started to peal the paper up. The original idea of scribing the blue Styrofoam for brickwork as described by Don Railton had a slightly different process. He used graph paper which he cut the center out of. He then laid a straight edge across the graph lines and ran the blade across the Styrofoam. Marc Reusser modified the process with the printed brick and low-tac adhesive. Using Don Railton’s process leave slightly ‘cleaner’ bricks and might be better for smaller scales. Using Marc Reusser’s method means that when you pull up the paper there is a tendency for small bits (if not entire bricks) to come away with the paper. This is fine for what I am trying to portray here (rotted, crumbling brick) .. and is easier for me.

Note: Peeling all the strips and individual paper ‘bricks’ is one of those things that can be done while doing something else .. listening to talk radio, music etc. as it is basically a mindless exercise (good think for me prob)

Mortar Lines
EnlargeMortarJointsOne of the problems with using the X-Acto knife to cut the mortar lines is that the lines close back together. Where’s the mortar lines? In 1:24 .. the scale I am modeling this shed in .. if you scale 3/8″-1/2″ mortar lines to that scale you get .015″-.021″ .. heck .. even in 1:48 that would be around .010″.

So. I took an emery board and sliced off the edge on one side so I ended up with a knife edge emery board. I then ran that down each of the knife slits. This tends to ‘roll over’ the edge of the brick a bit .. but again .. that’s fine for what I am doing. The vertical joints .. basically have to be individually picked at with either the X-Acto blade .. or .. like I did and ground down an old blade to a little chisel that I could press into each of the vertical joints.



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