Shanty #1

O Scale Shanty#1 – 901
AM-901-1200This little O scale kit from AM Models is about a simple as you can get. A door and two windows are all cast into the walls. The clapboard siding structure measures 1-5/16 x 1-5/8 in. No instructions but .. none are needed. It lists for $6.75 .. I picked it up for $6.08 at my LHS.

There was a little flash on top of each of the long walls and a little from the sprues on the bottom of each wall.

Graying
grayish_1200I cleaned the flash from the walls and glued everything into a box – leaving the floor off at this time. I sprayed with some Gray Primer the scrubbed on a series of pigments – yellow, brown and gray. This is just to get a dirty grayish color that will show under peeled paint. I didn’t paint the inside at all – other than a little overspray. Finally, I sealed the surface with a clear flat. Normally this isn’t required except in this case I used pigments which requires sealing. Once the clear had dried I sprayed two coats of Hairspray (TRESemmé), using a hair dryer to make the coats dry faster.
Taping off trim
tapedtrim_1200Blue painters tape was cut into strips and used to cover everything except the trim. Following this I sprayed with a rattle-can – Valspar Satin Enamel. I used a color called Satin Leafy Rise.
Taping walls – then paint
painted-1200I waited an hour for the trim paint to dry and then taped over the trim so I could paint the walls. This time I used a Krylon Flat White rattle-can. I didn’t try to get a perfect covering .. in fact I put it on fairly lightly – this is for two reasons .. thinner paint will chip easier and I wanted it to look faded.

It actually came out pretty good considering the paint is sitting on top of two layers of hairspray! The tape pulled a bit of paint off the door but that is fine as the next step will be chipping the paint off.

Tools
tools-1200For chipping the paint the tools are fairly simple. The idea is that the paint sits on top of the hairspray. What we will do is pierce the paint so water gets to the hairspray which is water soluble. The paint then will float off. What paint you use will make a difference in the way it chips. Tamiya is an acrylic lacquer. If you use water to thin them instead of the thinner the paint will chip easier (the thinner makes for a bond to the surface, water less so) and the chips are smaller. Life Color is a vinyl acrylic and forms a ‘skin’ .. so the chips will be larger.

I didn’t use either – being somewhat lazy. Instead I used rattle-cans .. Valspar satin for the green and Krylon ‘Colormaster’ flat white for the walls. The Krylon actually chipped very nicely!

Stiff brush/toothpick
stiffbrush-1200The larger stiff brush was used initially. You brush on water and make a rubbing both the end and side and a jabbing motion. You have to be careful as once the water gets to the hairspray it will chip really fast. Use the toothpick in a similar method .. but with more control .. make a scratch where you want the chip to start so water gets to the hairspray .. then switch to a brush.
Soft brush
smallbrush-1200You move to the smaller brush and barely brush the surface .. call it ‘butterfly kisses’ .. sloooowly .. carefully .. gently .. the smaller the chips the better. This is where you don’t get into a hurry. This could cover a couple minutes .. or hours .. or days.
Chipped
chipped-1200… and so .. we have this little building that has suffered from the weather. One of the hardest things that I find is not to go too far and make it a complete caricature.
Pinwash
pinwash-1200Next is a pinwash. This is thinned paint that is applied to your model to create false shadows and enhance details. I used MIG Productions Brown and Dark Wash for this is a pre-thinned enamel paint.

When I say ‘pinwash’ .. it means apply applying it with pinpoint precision. In this case .. the smaller the brush the better. A VERY small brush would be excellent. I only had a small brush .. but we have to do what we can with the tools we have after all. I applied the Brown and then came back with the Dark washes around the windows and trim to make them ‘pop’ just a bit.

pwthinner-1200That last step works pretty well .. but left a relatively sharp line of contrast where the pinwash was applied. You can see that to the right of the door where the pinwash was applied down the corner trim (above). To moderate that a bit I dipped a Q-Tip in some thinner then removed most of that (the wash is an enamel) .. and then wiped across and blended the edges so it looks .. “mo better”.
Finished
The little project is complete. I had a lot of fun with this little $6 kit.
Front
finished_1-1200The one thing that I added to the kit is the doorknob. That is a small pin with a drop of CA glue to thicken it and some silver paint.
Front/Right-
finished_2-1200Working from top down – the piece provided in the kit was way too thick (IMO). I replaced it with a piece of printed cardstock. The texture is from Clevermodels as is the tarpaper. I most likely will come back and weather the tarpaper a bit once the structure is on the layout. The doorknob can be seen in profile. The right side window – I got a major attack of lazy and found a plywood texture online and boarded up the window.
Right
finished_3-1200Notice the difference in how the green and white chipped. They were both sprayed from Rattle-Cans .. but the white was Krylon and the green Valspar. Note: While the green didn’t chip like the white – I can always go back with an older weathering procedure using a sponge to create gray chips .. if I wish. I also might try .. very delicately .. adding some nail heads to the plywood – a pencil lead might work. The need for weathering of the roof is very obvious too.
Right/Rear
finished_4-1200.. more of the same. The rather large ‘chip’ on the rear was me getting a little too heavy with the brush when chipping. Again .. that can be repaired easily with a sponge and some off-white paint.
Rear
finished_5-1200more of the same. One of the things I didn’t do is have a photograph to look at while doing this. There would probably be less weathering of paint where the roof overhang protected the walls and more down lower.
Rear/Left
finished_6-1200Looking at this photo I think that after weathering the tarpaper .. there should be a ladder against the building with a roll of tar paper etc. with a guy replacing all that damage. I did put glass in this window though.
Left
finished_7-1200What to say? Well … you can see the doorknob sticking out!
Left/Front
finished_8-1200This is may favorite photo of the shoot
Closeup
finished_9-1200Finally .. a closer look. One thing I can tell right off is that I need to do some study on how such a structure actually weathers – this is somewhat random and there should be more of a pattern of wear. Still .. all in all .. was fun.
Pigments
finished_10-1200I added a little pigment this morning. I used Dr O’Brien’s Weathering Powders to add some gray, brown and white shades to the roof and the plywood. Heck. Got a chance to use my new Macro lens.

Comments

Shanty #1 — 2 Comments

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

I'm not a spammer This plugin created by Alexei91

Heads up! You are attempting to upload an invalid image. If saved, this image will not display with your comment.