Grażyna – Part VIII

Cargo Boom
boom3The complicated arrangement of the cargo boom around the mast should be great fun. Around the mast is the mast locker. Attached to the mast locker, the two booms pivot off the Goosenecks. This allows the booms to swing from over the hatch to over the side. Most of the jumble is made up block and tackle and lines.
Goosenecks
Goosenecks_and_BoomI came up with a design for the goosenecks that should work. The booms fit through the goosenecks into the mast locker .. the goosenecks just become a visual device .. the support is completely via the booms fit into the mast locker. I have it so the one will sit over the hatch and the other over the side. This should allow the mass of lines etc.
renderedHere’s a closer look. The one on the left is the gooseneck for the boom over the cargo hatch. The one on the right will be the dockside boom.
Plating Thickness
Jumping back to plating. I want to create something that looks like the older rivet plating on a ship where the horizontal plates overlap. The vertical joints are butt joints. That brings up the question as to how thick were the plates?

The SHF John Oxley built in 1927 in Scotland : Here the plating was reduced in thickness where it was not needed to save money. The thickness ranged from 0.32 inch (8 mm) to 0.40 inch (10 mm). A discussion elsewhere talks about steam tugs from the early part of the 20th century with 3/8″ plating.

That gives a general range then. I’m not trying for exact .. just don’t want to get so extreme it would be venturing into the ‘silly’ Generally then .. 3/8″ to 1/2″ seems right .. that upper number from a 1885 issue of Marine Engineer.

In O scale 3/8″ = .008″ and 1/2″ = .010″. I have some .005″ brass which converts to plate about 1/4″ thick.

Modeling the lapping
Lap position
plating_1First the point where the plates lap over each other is drawn directly on the hull. This is somewhat subjective in that the plate needs to be handled .. moved, punched, held in position etc. Three feet in height perhaps. For modeling it will more be what looks best.
Brass strips
plating_2I have .005″ brass sheet I bought at Lowes. The plan is to cut this so the side showing at the lap with be straight. The other side I don’t care that much as long as the strip conforms to the hull. Epoxy this to the hull. (update: I just picked up a .008″ thick tin sheet from Lowes. I may use this .. really depends on which one cuts better)
Bondo
plating_3Fill in the area behind the brass strip, let set up and then sand down flush with the brass.
Aluminum tape
plating_4I experimented a bit. Stuck a strip of aluminum tape to a piece of wax paper. From teh back I used my Excel pounce tool to simulate rivets. The tape then comes off of the wax paper easily. This means I can use scissors or a knife to cut the ‘plating’ to size while stuck to the wax paper. When happy plate the hull. In fact leaving the wax paper on will allow pealing off just a bit so I can align .. stick that edge down .. peal off the rest of the wax paper and then stick the tape down.

That’s the plan at this time.

pp7


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