Now its time to pull everything off the template and grind the points to final shape, if you have not already done so.
The points should look like the photo to the left.
Once everything is off the template and the points have been shaped, a little clean up is in order. I go over everything with a brass wire wheel in the Foredom. You could use the Dremel, but I like the speed control with the Foredom. Of course, if you have a fancier Dremel, you have speed control, too. The brass wire wheel cleans off the flux residue, Sharpie marks and smooths out the cut marks in solder.
Prototype rail is not a shiny silver color on the sides. Only the top of the rail is shiny. Brand new rail is black or very dark grey. Around here rail weathers to a chocolate brown pretty fast. I use whatever flat brown spray paint I can find cheap. For some reason, this “flat” paint comes out kind of glossy. Serves me right for going cheap.
Also in the photo above is the throw bar. Over the years I have used quite a few different materials for the throw bar. Currently I am using wood of an appropriate dimension with metal inserts.
The steps to fabricate the throw bar are simple enough. Once cut to length, determine where you want the hole for the screw that attaches the throw bar to the tie bar. I use metal tubing to hold the threads for that screw. Find some that has an interior dimension something less than the tap drill for the 00-90 screw. Cut off a length of the tubing equal to the thickness of your throw bar and drill an interference hole in the throw bar for the tubing. I put a drop of ACC on the tubing to make sure it stays in place. I also put in a piece of tubing where I will attach the switch motor.
Once the ACC has cured, drill out the tubing for the screw with the 00-90 tap drill (the pin vise works perfectly) and tap for 00-90.
Finally, I clean off the paint from the stock rails where the points will contact, and the contact area of the points.
Fabrication is complete.