Pictured to the left is a very important tool. It is the nastiest truck I could find. The wheels are in gauge, but other than that, they are awful with deep sharp flanges. Run this truck through the frog with very little pressure on it, and with a slight amount of side pressure toward the frog. If this truck doesn’t pick the frog point, good quality wheels won’t either.
If the wheels on this truck pick the frog point and wander off onto the curved side, something is not right with the installation. The most likely culprit is the gauge between the stock rail and the frog. Check it. If it is out, fix it. Inaccurate flangeway width and/or depth could also cause the problem. Check those dimensions. If they are incorrect fix them. You can use the hack saw blade to widen and deepen flangeways.
|CURVED STOCK RAIL|
The curved stock rail is next. The curved stock rail has a tendency to curve right out of the frog. This will not work well. So count down about three ties towards the points, push the curved rail over so that there is a straight line into the frog. This will result in more curve towards the points. This is good. Spike it.
In the photo to the left, the spikes furthest to the right are the last spikes before the points. This allows the closure rails/points to flex easily as the turnout is thrown. Note how the curved closure rail has a straight line into the frog.
Now gauge the curved stock rail to the closure rail/points and spike it in place. Drive some extra spikes on the outside of the stock rails where the points make contact. The switch motor will apply a lot of pressure here.
Finally, attach the throw bar to the tie bar with a 00-90 screw and you are done!
Well, almost. The last step, using the Bright Boy, is to clean the paint off the tops of the rails.
This turnout is now ready for gapping, wiring, and the installation of a switch motor. All of which will be peculiar to your layout and the exact location of this turnout.